Vence
While most people when asked about South France probably think Cannes, Nice, Antibes, turquoise beaches, Monte Carlo, Monaco, and chilling on yachts, we’ll look into a little different side of the area. Need to mention that we stayed for just one full day instead of four, due to some circumstances. And that we were not intrested in “the shore” part, for two reasons, it was still overwhelmed with people and we’ve seen it before.
I was curious to explore the artsy side. Before I got pregnant I was applying for some art residences and was surprised to see how many of them were from Côte d’Azur, so after a bit of research, I realized what I actually always knew but never thought about - some of the most influential artists of the XX century either lived or spent a considerable amount of time there, often collaborating with other artists, creating not only sculptures and paintings, but spaces that formed specific vibe in the region. To name a few, Matisse, Picasso, Miro, Chagall, Renoir, Monet. The itinerary was as follows: Foundation Maeght, Foudation CAB, lunch at their restaurant Sol, the Matisse Chapel, also known as the Chapelle du Rosaire, and the town itself - Saint Paul de Vence. Even though we’ve spent minimum time in south France and decided to cut our trip short due to some pretty awful experience with the hotel we booked (has perfect reviews everywhere, btw) and also unexpected circumstances back at home, this one beautiful day completely changed the whole aftertaste.
Let’s start with Foundation Maeght. Established in 1964 by art dealers Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, the museum is dedicated to modern and contemporary art. While their collection of works by artists such as Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, and Alberto Giacometti is impressive, my favourite part is its unique architecture, and the fact the artists were directly involved in creating it. Like Miró Labyrinth, a sculpture garden where you can tell when the guy was serious, and when he was just having fun, but everything feels intentional. The CAB Foundation, 2 minutes from Maeght, is an extension of the Brussels-based contemporary art space. It is solely focused on contemporary art and design, and functions as an art residency off-season, and you can also book a room there. We appreciated their restaurant Sol’s unorthodox approach to French cuisine. The Chapelle du Rosaire, designed and decorated by Henri Matisse between 1948 and 1951, is considered one of his masterpieces and a unique blend of art, architecture, and spirituality. Upon its completion, the chapel received mixed reactions. Some praised it as a modern masterpiece of religious art, while others criticized it for its abstract and unconventional style. I, however, enjoyed the lightness and purity which are rarely found at religious institutional places. Oh, and I adored the priests' vestments for the chapel, you’ll find a photo of one here too. Next, there is the historical town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. It’s one of the oldest medieval towns on the French Riviera and is renowned for its rich artistic heritage, famous painters such as Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, and Amedeo Modigliani frequented the town. It’s so enchanting, no wonder Marc Chagall even made Saint-Paul-de-Vence his home and is buried in the town's cemetery. The town still has numerous galleries and studios scattered throughout the village, and oh, the views are straight from a fairytale.
